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Monday, 21 May 2012
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Sunrise on the Ganges
Apologies for the long delay in posting from India/Nepal, but I have just returned from a Singapore/Malaysia/Miami Trip with my remaining vacation time from the year. So lets get cracking as we have a lot of ground left to cover

When last we left our intrepid adventurers, we had just completed an evening fire aarti in the city of Benares aka Varanasi, on the banks of the holy ganges river. The following morning, we returned to the same river, setting off at sunrise to view one of the more interesting morning commutes


Alongside every part of the riverbank are stone ghats, or docks leading down to the rivers edge for people to conduct their daily ablutions and/or business


Apparently a submarine washed up near this crematorium...when they say six feet under, they arent kidding!

Indiana Josh and the sunken temple?

Quite the busy day, no? And yet, on the other side of the river, the land remains relatively untouched


Of course, once the sun is up, people have things to do, like bathe

Or catch up on the latest gossip

or even do laundry!

After that, our guide informed us that ALL the water in Varanasi comes from the ganges river. The water we drink, bathe in, etc is all (hopefully!) purified from the river in which people are taking their morning dunks, cleaning their clothes, and disposing of their dead bodies. We are all holier and slightly smellier for the experience


Following our morning boat ride, Dr Han decided we should set off through the streets of the city to explore them by day

good thinking, Doc!

Of course, Short Round remained on the lookout for any more dangerous monkeys


At such an early Hour the streets were still mostly deserted, but things picked up as the day progressed, and we visited Indias largest university!

Hahaha, boo-b .com, institute of higher learning!


We also learned about the fine art of weaving, both by hand loom as seen on the right, and machine looms. Sadly due to the time intensive requirements of this job, very few people have the skill or inclination to learn how to make cloths and tapestries from silver thread such as those seen on the right anymore

Next and final stop in India was the Mother India Temple, a 3 dimensional topographical map of the subcontinent

and yet, no you are here locator



Despite That, here we are!

Along with a potential replacement for my longstanding Zoidberg Avatar, Dr Geeko!

With that, we bid adieu to both India and Dr Han, as he had patients to return to, and we had one more country to tackle before returning home.
Next Stop, Nepal, home to Everest, more temples, and Parahawking
Thursday, 03 May 2012
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Varanasi-City of Light, Fire and Knowledge
Where was I? Ah Yes, the magical mystical fire aarti of varanasi

Aarti is generally performed one to five times daily, and usually at the end of a bhajan session. It is performed during almost all Hindu ceremonies and occasions. It involves the circulating of an 'Aarti plate' or 'Aarti lamp' around a person or deity and is generally accompanied by the singing of songs in praise of that deva or person (many versions exist). In doing so, the plate or lamp is supposed to acquire the power of the deity. The priest circulates the plate or lamp to all those present. They cup their down-turned hands over the flame and then raise their palms to their forehead - the purificatory blessing, passed from the deva's image to the flame, has now been passed to the devotee
Aarti is said to have descended from the Vedic concept of fire rituals, or homa. In the traditional aarti ceremony, the flower represents the earth (solidity), the water and accompanying handkerchief correspond with the water element (liquidity), the lamp or candle represents the fire component (heat), the peacock fan conveys the precious quality of air (movement), and the yak-tail fan represents the subtle form of ether (space). The incense represents a purified state of mind, and one’s "intelligence" is offered through the adherence to rules of timing and order of offerings. Thus, one’s entire existence and all facets of material creation are symbolically offered to the Lord via the aarti ceremony
When aarti is performed, the performer faces the deity of God (or divine element, e.g. Ganges river) and concentrates on the form of God by looking into the eyes of the deity to get immersed. The flame of the aarti illuminates the various parts of the deity so that the performer and onlookers may better see and concentrate on the form. Aarti is waved in circular fashion, in clockwise manner around the deity. After every circle when Aarti has reached the bottom (6-8 o' clock position), the performer waves it backwards while remaining in the bottom (4-6 o' clock position) and then continues waving it in clockwise fashion. The idea here is that aarti represents our daily activities, which revolves around God, a center of our life. Looking at God while performing aarti reminds the performer (and the attendees of the aarti) to keep God at the center of all activities and reinforces the understanding that routine worldly activities are secondary in importance
Apart from worldly activities aarti also represents one's self - thus, aarti signifies that one is peripheral to Godhead or divinity. This would keep one's ego down and help one remain humble in spite of high social and economic rank. A third commonly held understanding of the ritual is that aarti serves as a reminder to stay vigilant so that the forces of material pleasures and desires cannot overcome the individual. Just as the lighted wick provides light and chases away darkness, the vigilance of an individual can keep away the influence of the material world.


The Multiple priests/performers in the videos above are students at the religious college in Varanasi, and performing these rituals is both a community service and an exam. Throughout the performance tourists and pilgrims offer up our own small aartis or prayers, setting adrift small bowls of flowers, ghee, and the other components of aarti on floating baskets in the ganga river

The site of all those prayers being set afloat nightly is truly something magical to behold

After the ceremony, we opted to wander the streets of Varanasi a bit. Another name for the city is Benares, city of knowledge. We garnered much knowledge on our walk

We learned that the streets are hella crowded...no seriously
Just crossing the street you take your life in your hands
And because it was so thrilling the first time, we decided to tempt fate and go back for one more round of knowledge and danger
Having successfully tempted fate twice, we just wandered the market in search of more knowledge

like child mannequins are terrifying with their soulless eyes

And to Beware the Aquatic Association...but more on that next time in the final Varanasi, and final India post before we lose Dr Han and trek onward to Nepal
Wednesday, 02 May 2012
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Learning from Buddha at Sarnath

When last we left our heroes, they were just setting off on a midnight train to anywhere Georgia Varanasi, city of KNowledge. We arrived safely and met our guide for the area, who was the Indian Version of Bernie Mac. He was also chock full of information about the city

The name Varanasi has its origin from the names of the two rivers Varuna and Assi, for the old city lies in the north shores of the Ganges bounded by its two tributaries, the Varuna and the Assi. It is A city renowned in India for its learning, philosophy and music.

Also its hordes of zombies begging children and rampant poverty.

Our first stop was actually a side trip to Sarnath. Sarnath, from Saranganath, means "Lord of the Deer" and relates to an old Buddhist story in which the Bodhisattva is a deer and offers his life to a king instead of the doe the latter is planning to kill. The king is so moved that he creates the park as a sanctuary for deer. The park is still there today.

It is also the site where Buddha gave his first sermon after becoming enlightened. As if that was not impressive enough to mark this as a place of historical and religious significance, Buddha remained here through the rainy season and founded an entire college


This and more are the remains of living quarters, classrooms, and meditative temples where for hundreds of years Buddhist monks came to learnt he dharma and train under the guidance of either Buddha himself or one of his 5 disciples


The Dhamek Stupa, pictured above is built over the exact site where Buddha was said to have given his first sermon, the eightfold path of nirvana. Stupas are built to commerate important places or events, and many are claimed to have relics (bones or other bits of human remains from holy figures) buried under them, although the sheer number of stupas you will see in this vacation alone would indicate that it is probably more a matter of faith than fact

The Temple first pictured was built much later to commemorate the site and remains an important pilgrimage location for Buddhists of all countries. The inside is filled with murals depicting the entire life and death of Budda, such as above where he came across four figures who would lead him to enlightment an old man, a poor man, a dying man, and a sick man

Lord Buddha in all his glory.
A Brief jaunt across the street to the Sarnath Archaelogical museum revealed the Ashokan Pillar, sandstone polished to the quality of marble, a national emblem of India, and found on all its money
Leaving behind Sarnath, we returned to Varanasi for some light reading, ice cream, and drinks

including some Shirley's Tample

Rajbhog ice cream

and humorous ly named authors.


Finishing just in time to observe the evening Fire Aarti of Varnasi with hundreds, if not thousands of other tourists and pilgrims. But more on that to come...
Friday, 27 April 2012
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Orcha wish your city was fun like me

Leaving Behind the wonders of the Taj, we moved on to the significantly less wonderful Orcha. Falsely led to believe this city was worth a stopover (spoiler: it wasnt) by OnTheGo Tours Agent Ryan Newson (do not give this man business ever) and tricked by this horrible unhelpful lying travel agent in being stuck in this 2 hour city for 36 hours, we decided to make the most of it. Also, still sick and vomiting off camera.

Orcha has three things to see, one of them being this palace. The whole city is a stopover on the way between khajuraho and varanasi. Seriously, Ryan Newson is a dick. Anonymous, get on that.

I would love to tell you all the significance of the things you will be seeing, except I was busy being violently sick off camera and didnt pay attention to most of what the guide said. Dont worry, I will recover by the time we reach Varanasi next post


Admittedly the royal palace was fun and appropriately "ruin"-y looking

Kali-Ma! Temple of Doom pic, check!

I really love the arched doorways of persian architecture

We were given as long as we felt like to wander around and explore


An entire deserted palace, all to ourselves

The King of Orcha died trying to save a cow from a lion. Thats my orcha fact






The Mughals certainly understood the concept of Grand

Elephant Pol entrance

Another Royal palace or some such...we took a dance break



The seven incarnations of shiva

Jahangir Mahal on River Betwa
By this point about 1 week into the trip, we were starting to get a little templed out. So we decided to use our remaining 30 hours in Orcha to explore the town, an excursion Short Round referred to as "Poorism"


Even at Midday, the streets were mostly deserted, the oppressive heat keeping everyone indoors in their stone and thatch houses

Shave and A haircut would be about 2 bits at this barbershop

Even the graffiti notes the heatwave...

Ahh, a Market! Now this is more like it

As the day began to wear down, more people showed up to haggle, play, and generally just hang out in the street. We picked up some trinkets here and there, not out of any real need or desire for souvenirs, but just for the sake of being out and about, interacting with the locals

Yada yada yada, marketplace temple, etc etc, filled with 4 wasps nests when we went to investigate

Those colorful piles are paints, not spices as we orignally thought. And a small child of about 6 years old managed to convince Miss Crystal to purchase some. She was quite the saleswoman, using every trick at her disposal bringing in her smaller sister, telling us what a good deal we were getting, offering a special price that she hadnt given the last tourists...and then she couldnt keep a straight face and laughed, because we were the only tourists she had seen all day. Miss Crystal rewarded her for her efforts, purchasing a small lotus flower filled with 6 paints. She was no more honest or savvy than any other merchant, but she was adorable and still learning her craft

This sign is 100% True.

Finally, the sun set on what felt like the longest day and a half ever, and finally recovered physically and mentally, we boarded an overnight sleeper train


Next stop: Varanasi, Holiest city in India
Thursday, 26 April 2012
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Wonder of the World
While my last post was all about Agra, I neglected to mention or post anything about what makes it most famous.

The Tah Mahal, one of the New 7 wonders of the world (along with chichen itza in mexico, christ the redeemer in brazil, the colosseum in rome, the great wall of china in freaking all of china, machu picchu in peru and petra in jordan-as of this date, i have been to 4 of them)

Entrance gate to the taj mahal, the small domes on top representing each year it took to build 1632-1653, and the entire border underneath filled with passages from the koran written in ascending perspective so letters at the top and bottom look the same size

Should guilty seek asylum here,
Like one pardoned, he becomes free from sin.
Should a sinner make his way to this mansion,
All his past sins are to be washed away.
The sight of this mansion creates sorrowing sighs;
And the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes.
In this world this edifice has been made;
To display thereby the creator's glory-Shah Jahan, describing the Taj Mahal

The base structure is essentially a large, multi-chambered cube with chamfered corners, forming an unequal octagon. On each of these sides, a huge pishtaq, or vaulted archway, frames the iwan with two similarly shaped, arched balconies stacked on either side. This motif of stacked pishtaqs is replicated on the chamfered corner areas, making the design completely symmetrical on all sides of the building.

Four minarets frame the tomb, one at each corner of the plinth facing the chamfered corners. The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan; the actual graves are at a lower level. The minarets were constructed slightly outside of the plinth so that, in the event of collapse, (a typical occurrence with many tall constructions of the period) the material from the towers would tend to fall away from the tomb.

But enough education. Just take a few moments to appreciate this truly marvelous spectacle

Okay, moment's over. Back to fun!

For all you Cal Fans like short round

Pinch!

Short Round is gargantuan


Tourist Bureau requires at least one yoga photo be taken by a tourist every day in India



Uplifting feeling

A rose by any other name smells stoned


Massive ceilings

Final Thoughts?

Hipster Album Cover #3 (and by far the best!)

Parting shot...
Onward to Orcha and Varanasi!


True









