April 29, 2010
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Tokyo Trip 2010: Nikko
Early the next morning, Andy and I set off for Nikko, a 2 hour train ride north of Tokyo, and home to the Toshogu shrine, burial site of Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of Japan’s famous shoguns/historical figures
Along the way, andy marked another victory in his ongoing battle against Japan’s insect population off on his wall.
A brief stop at Asakusa’s Senkai Gate to pick up some snacks for the trip, and a mere 2 hours or brief nap later, we had arrived. Now Nikko is a little bit further north, with slightly colder weather…meaning it is still cherry blossom season there
Despite the Rain, an everpresent companion on my trip until it’s last day, Andy and I decided to wander around and see where fate led us.
When first I came here, I used to know the significance of this bridge, full of knowledge of Japanese language and culture, fresh out of college. This time, Andy and I agreed…some famous dude did something here or built this and because of that it’s very pretty and 10 dollars to cross. We took pics and kept walking
Toshogu shrine had been retouched since last I visited and with all the gold plating and new growth on the temple, looked amazing even in the miserable weather
The famous “hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil” monkeys on the stable of Toshogu shrine. And me adding the 4th mantra…do no evil. The one I always seem to have trouble with
After wandering in and out of gardens and temples for a couple hours, I was starving!
Now Andy had told me that Nikko is famous for Yuba, sweet tofu skin. Of course by the time we reached the restaurant it had closed. Along with most of the other restaurants. I guess Japanese people dont want lunch at 3pm. After extensive wandering we finally found the one restaurant open and figuring it was a sign, in we went.
Fortune of fortunes, not only did they have what I was craving (oyakodon-a chicken and egg dish over rice) but they also had the Yuba. We got everything we wanted in one place! And striking up a conversation with the owners of the restaurant, we mentioned that given the weather we were thinking about going to an onsen (hot spring) to relax before heading to dinner. When we told them the one we wanted, they insisted they knew a better one that was only slightly more expensive. In the spirit of yes, I agreed…however when they told us it would be a $26 dollar taxi ride to get there, not to mention back, we hesitated and asked how far it would be to walk. Sensing our financial burden, and determined to not have the nice foreigners waste their trip at a low quality hot spring, the owners literally closed up the restaurant and one of them offered to drive us over to the place. At which point you really cant refuse, not that we particularly wanted to.
So off we went in the car of a total stranger, along roads that got progressively less paved. It was a lot like being kidnapped. We were dropped off in the middle of nowhere
As our benefactor drove off leaving us with no other options, or any idea of where we were, in we went to explore the hot springs
A relaxing time was had by all, and in the next post you will see our next dinner adventure
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Comments (6)
Hot springs! That’s what I miss most about Japan. There was one that was on a mountain-side. I think taking an outdoor soak early in the morning was one of the most peaceful moments I’ve ever experienced.
@genstome - indeed, it’s true. without dan, none of this would have been possible. how have you been?
@justgotspaid - The onsen was so much better than the one we would have gone to. And I totally agree with you on “getting” oyakodon.
Looks like you’re having an awesome time!!! Dan told me how he found a good deal on flight to Japan and how you were probably going to go. Wish we coulda joined you! Have a great time!
Is green tea Pocky really that rare? Anyway, very cool that you got to see the sakura! I LOVE Oyakodon. When I finally “got” the meaning of it, it was like a language revelation. Again, only in Japan would someone shut down their restaurant to make sure you got a ride to the onsen. Its THAT important.
If you manage to stop by Kyoto, dont forget to pick up some ultra rare green tea Pocky!
We had a fantastic experience of Japanese hospitality when we were there too. We got lost one evening when trying to find our accommodation. When we stopped to ask some dog walkers where the accomodation was (in our very rudimentary Japanese) they had a conversation in Japanese between themselves for at least 15 minutes. In the end, it turned out that we were like 5km off track. The dogwalkers took us back to their house and then drove us to our accommodation. It was such a lovely experience.